Staying in St Remy, we were hankering to get back to a city for a day. Avignon lies only 25 minute drive to the north with smaller Arles a similar distance to the south west. Avignon’s draw is the Palais du Papes and famous bridge Pont d’Avignon spanning half the river Rhone.
The Palais des Papes is the big tourist attraction in Avignon, the seat of a rival papacy to Rome during medieval times.
Truth be told, it’s rather bleak inside with any former splendour long since siphoned back to the Vatican but it’s a good place to spend a couple of hours indoors out of the elements.
Avignon is a pretty town with attractive architecture and lively shops. It would make a good base if you were without a car – from here you could easily reach Orange, Marseille and Arles by train.
If you have a car, probably you’ll find it more practical to base yourself elsewhere and visit just for the day. We used a very reasonable underground car park close the the railway station.
Meanwhile Arles is packed with a tourist trail of museums, galleries and Roman ruins. Avignon holds a daily indoor food market (not Monday) whilst Arles has two massive street markets on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Plan your visit to Arles according to whether you wish to enjoy or avoid the market!
Have you visited Avignon?
Lac Peirou and Les Alpilles
To the south of St Remy and signposted from Avenue Van Gogh down Avenue Antoine de la Salle is the barrage lac Peirou also known as the Glanum Dam.
Manmade on the site of a dam originally for Roman Glanum, it’s a leafy spot easily reached on foot and perfect for picnics.
Should you be more ambitious in your rambling or cycling expeditions, why not take a climb into Les Alpilles, the small mountain chain that cuts across the landscape horizontally between St Remy and Les Baux.
Do you know this spot? Have you walked in the Alpilles?
Van Gogh in St Remy de Provence
After falling out with Gaugin and famously chopping his own ear off, Van Gogh checked into the St Paul de Mausole asylum.
Here he stayed for twelve months and painted many famous works such as Starry Night and Irises (both 1889). Today the pretty building is a monastery but has a museum open to the public.
Have you followed in Van Gogh’s footsteps at St Paul de Mausole?
Picture: Ian Turk / Flickr
Les Antiques and Glanum St Remy de Provence
Still a gateway to St Remy today, these Roman remains known as Les Antiques can be seen from the main road upon entering the town from Les Baux.
Around 1km to the south of St Remy, they are key parts of one of the best preserved ancient sites in Provence.
Opposite this arch and mausoleum are the Pompeii-like ruins of Glanum, a fortified town deserted since 260 AD.
Glanum was first founded by Celto-Ligurian tribes before being taken over by the Romans in 27 AD. There were baths and a forum but not arenas like those seen in nearby Arles and Nimes.
There are many Roman sites in Provence, notably at Arles and Orange.
Have you visited any Roman sites in Provence?
Shopping in St Remy de Provence
St Remy boasts a window shopper’s feast balanced between local services and products to tempt the tourists.
The southern half of the boulevard contains most shops although the ever enduring popularity of St Remy means business premises are increasing popping around the previously quieter northern perimeter.
Don’t miss Florame with organic soaps and toiletries or the biscuits and nougat at Au Petit Duc. To do the shops in St Remy justice, visit them at a different time to the Wednesday morning St Remy market.
I will be adding a list of recommended St Remy shops as I feature them on this site.
Can you recommend any favourite shops in St Remy de Provence and surrounding area?
Dining options in St Remy de Provence
You’ll never go hungry here, St Remy de Provence boasts as many restaurants, cafes and bars per person as a big city.
St Remy is easily stuffed with 50+ cafes and restaurants ranging from a quick crepe to gourmet blowouts. You could easily dine in a different restaurant for dinner and a different cafe or bar for lunch for a fortnight before repeating where you’d been.
My top recommendation for lunch would be Un Ete a St Remy de Provence which offers salads, pasta dishes, savoury galettes, sweet crepes and ice creams. For evening meals you might like to try La Gousse D’Ail (The taste of garlic) with its kitsch display of vintage fairground rides and other ephemera or L’Auberge de la Reine Jeanne with its leafy court yard. If you’re lucky the accordion player singing Jacques Brel numbers will pay a visit whilst you dine.
I will be adding further recommendations to this list as I feature places on the site.
Can you recommend anywhere good to eat in St Remy?
HM The Queen marks 20th Eurostar anniversary at St Pancras International
Her Majesty the Queen, accompanied by His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh, took a visit to the Eurostar terminal at St Pancras International today.
She unveiled a plaque to mark 20 years since the opening of the Channel Tunnel and high speed services between the UK and mainland Europe.
The event preceded the Queen’s state visit to France. During her 3 day trip she will attend events in Paris and join other heads of state commemorating the 70th anniversary of the Normandy Landings.
Since 1994, over 65 million vehicles and 330 million passengers have travelled on services through the Tunnel. Possibly today we take this direct connection to the continent slightly for granted and it’s hard to think back to when it didn’t exist. Prior to Eurostar, train travellers crossing the channel would have spent 2 hours on a train from London to Dover, waited for a ferry or a hovercraft and then easily another hour on a train from Calais to Paris.
Clare Hollingsworth, chairman of Eurostar said, “With the advent of a new state-of-the-art fleet of trains and a range new routes, we are looking forward to extending our reach and cementing further the relationship between the UK and continental Europe.”
The current Eurostar train was first introduced into service in 1994 carrying 750 passengers and operating at speeds of up to 300kph. Since then, the fleet of 28 trains has carried over 145 million passengers between London and mainland Europe. Following their refurbishment these trains will continue to form a core part of the Eurostar fleet. The new Eurostar e320 train will carry more than 900 passengers at speeds of up to 320kph.
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Eurostar Avignon service expands direct route to Provence
Eurostar will always have an air of romance for me – the first holiday I took with my husband was by train to Provence. Back in 1997 before budget airlines had got off the ground, if you didn’t drive across France, taking the Eurostar from London and changing to a TGV service in Paris or Lille was the way to go.
Whilst budget flights now operate daily to nearby Nimes and Marseille, travelling to Provence by train still holds huge appeal – it’s nostalgic, can be relaxing – but changing trains with heavy holiday bags is off putting if you aren’t seeing lower costs to make up for the inconvenience.
So when I heard about direct Eurostar services opening up to Avignon, I knew this could make train travel from the UK to Provence much easier. The journey, at speeds of up to 300 kph takes under six hours but thus far weekly Eurostar Avignon direct services have operated only in peak season. For 2014 Eurostar have opened up ticket sales earlier and added extra weeks to the timetable, now running from 28 June to 13 September. If demand grows as expected, Eurostar are planning a year round service to Avignon from 2015, making it easier for holiday makers to explore the region.
Avignon is a gateaway to a holiday in Provence. Notable local attactions include the Palais des Papes (pictured), wine region Chateauneuf du Pape and the rolling landscape of the Luberon. We’ve found nearby town St Remy-de-Provence a perfect base for exploring both the Vaucluse and Bouches du Rhone areas of Provence.
There are many advantages of direct Eurostar services across France over air or road travel; no need to check in luggage, being free to stretch your legs on the train. Not getting stuck on the motorway nor hunting down decent loos in service areas scores points over driving too. Both parents can give kids their full attention on the train – neither parent is driving, no one is trying to read a map.
But what about price? Eurostar direct tickets to Avignon start from a competitive £109 return per person – it’s hard to beat that by air during school holiday periods. And even if you have time or inclination to drive, the final price for a family of four including ferry, petrol, motorway tolls, meals and overnight hotel costs each direction en route to the south of France can easily hit £500.
Tickets for the direct services move as fast as the trains. A spokesperson told us Eurostar encourage travellers to book Eurostar tickets to Avignon early, “The Brits love affair with the South of France is stronger than ever. By opening sales to Avignon earlier than usual and by extending services we are serving the growing number of people choosing high-speed rail over air. Increasingly passengers see their rail journey as part of the holiday itself.”
Eurostar Avignon Service – the low down
The direct weekly Eurostar Avignon service is available throughout summer from only £109 return in Standard class and £249 return in Standard Premier. If direct services are full, Eurostar offers connecting services all year round which arrive into Avignon TGV station, located just outside the town centre. Tickets for the connecting services are available from 90 days in advance of travel from £119 return in Standard class and £239 return in Standard Premier.
Eurostar customers can also take advantage of a deal with car rental company Avis comprising exclusive rates and an on-board car hire check-in process to help avoid queues on arrival.
Tickets for Eurostar’s Avignon direct summer services are available from www.eurostar.com, by calling 08432 186 186, at Eurostar stations or from travel agents.
Le Clerc shopping haul: things to buy in France
This post originally featured on Maison Cupcake. It is I (who have been shopping at) Mnsr Leclerc…
You know I just cannot resist a chance to add to my collection of Les 30 Recettes Cultes whenever I’m in France. I have about 18 of them now and actually could do with a list of which ones I already have so I don’t double up.
On our recent trip to Biscarrosse during August I tracked down copies of this series for Ebly (French wheat grain brand), Carambar (caramel sweets), Twix, fromage frais, cream cheese and goats’ cheese inspiration. Yes there’s a British series called 30 Best Recipes but they don’t sell it as a convenient one off, they sucker you in to buy it as a part work and in any case, the recipes in the French editions are way more sophisticated.
I also picked up this selection of flavourings that I’d not seen duplicated by brands in the UK; coffee, coconut, strawberry and pistachio.
And in the baking aisle I also picked up caramel sauces in rum and salted flavours, ground hazelnuts (rarely seen in the UK), praline mix and chocolate marshmallow “Petit Oursin” bears. You might also spy a jar of Speculoos crumbs which I enjoy on top of yogurt and fruit for an easy pudding.
The savoury selection includes sauces I’d not seen in the UK; Heinz pepper sauce (curious!), wasabi mayo, curry sauce and a Sacla asparagus pasta sauce. I didn’t buy as much canned fish as previous visits limiting myself to these tuna and mackerel rillets in pretty tubs.
New magazine Modes & Travaux Passion caught my eye as did the latest issue of Marie Claire Idees. Finally I spotted a book full of creme brulees at the service area on the way home for the bargain price of 3€50. French motorway service areas can be surprisingly good for a cookery book bargain – last trip you may remember I found a Trish Deseine chocolatier kit including a book for just 5€.
Did you bring any foodie things back from holiday?