city guide

April 2, 2026

My Paris Guide: A Frequent Visitor’s Tips

Sarah Trivuncic French Travel city guide, france, Paris 0 Comments

From buzzing pavement cafés on boulevards, to the beehives in Parc du Luxembourg, from the noisy chimes of Metro doors closing, to gazing at éclairs through a patisserie window: Paris is a feast for the senses.

Out of over seventy trips I’ve made to France, at least ten of these were to Paris. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or want to explore hidden corners, here’s my overview guide to a great visit to the French capital. I have far more to share about Paris than I can fit into one post, so consider this an evolving jumping-off point.

My Paris Guide: outdoor restaurant terrace with view of Eiffel Tower — Paris – outdoor restaurant terrace overlooking the Eiffel Tower.

Friends often ask me for personal recommendations where to go and what to do in the French capital. To make these tips easier to update, this will be my umbrella guide to my experiences in Paris. Some posts linked here were written on earlier trips. I still stand by these but am slowly updating and expanding this guide with more recent Paris experience.

My Paris Guide – Contents

Paris at a Glance

Regular visits to Paris – three times in 2024 and likely as many this year – gave me the chance to learn my way around on foot and by bus, rather than solely on the Metro. I’ve built up a map of places to return to, as well as a wish-list of new ones to visit.

I’ll use this guide to signpost some of my own Paris highlights and suggestions – these aren’t predictable checklists seen in every Paris guide; I share real experiences and practical itineraries from my trips. These are my lived experiences not listicles selling expensive tours.

Paris bus interior with Art Nouveau metro entrance through window — You see more of Paris from buses than the Metro.

Central Paris is compact but densely packed with sights and attractions for any tourist. But Paris is more than beautiful monuments, this is a living breathing city full of Parisians going about their daily lives.

Ignore the clichés about the French being rude; follow a few simple rules, like saying “Bonjour” and keeping your voice down in restaurants, and you’ll get along fine. Paris has style but it isn’t always polished, you’ll see graffiti and rubbish piled up. It’s not the image shown by influencers swishing their hair and Chanel bags in one street by the Eiffel Tower.

Souvenir seller's hand clutching bundle of metal Eiffel Towers. — Parisian souvenir seller holding bundle of little metal Eiffel Towers.

Paris is great to visit all year round, though it can be cold in winter and extremely hot in summer. Small businesses often close for extended holidays in August, and naturally the summer holidays are busier than off-season. I’ve spent bright, blue-skied January days there, when waves on the Seine sparkle in the sun – proof that any time can be a good time to visit Paris.

Choosing where to stay in Paris

I’ve stayed in several areas in Paris, but my personal preference is to be within walking distance of Gare du Nord. It means I can drop off luggage on arrival and avoid queues for Metro passes at one of Paris’s busiest stations.

I’m fond of the 10th arrondissement neighbourhood close to Canal Saint Martin which is about a 15-minute walk from the Eurostar terminal. In the other direction, it’s as easy to stroll towards Montmartre.

Montmartre by night with Parisian bench and lamps and cobbles — Paris – Montmartre, Place Émile Goudeau, site of Picasso’s one-time home at Le Bateau Lavoir – by night.

South of the Seine, the Sorbonne and Latin Quarter are a favourite. Here you’ll find restaurants, independent bookshops and cinemas frequented by students. Nearby are the domed Panthéon and the Emily in Paris-famous Place de L’Estrapade, or you can walk to Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Paris Place de L'Estrapade with fountain — Paris in winter – fountain at Place de l’Estrapade, a key Emily in Paris filming location (outside Emily’s flat) with Gabriel’s red restaurant on left.

Further south still, Montparnasse offers iconic brasserie restaurants such as La Coupole and Café Le Dôme along its wide boulevards. I like the vibe of Montparnasse for its lived-in feel, rather than obvious proximity to big sights.

Its cultural history is fascinating too, former residents include Giacometti and Simone de Beauvoir, who grew up in a flat above La Rotonde. Montparnasse cemetery is less obvious, but with equally interesting “residents” to pay homage to than at the more famous Cemetière Père Lachaise in the east; Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin are buried here.

Paris La Rotonde by night with neon signage and diners eating. — Paris – La Rotonde brasserie on Boulevard Montparnasse

If you don’t mind staying further outside the city, there are several campsites around Paris. We have been camping in Maisons-Laffitte, west of the city, but under an hour away on high-speed RER trains. Saint-Germain-en-Laye is another leafy, well-heeled suburb worth considering and it’s not far from Versailles. An advantage of staying on the outskirts is the ability to park if you’ve arrived via car ferry.

Granted, Paris is also ringed by rough-edged Brutalist concrete banlieue that I wouldn’t recommend. My top tip is to scout neighbourhoods on Google Street View to gauge the vibe, especially to imagine the route between your accommodation and public transport at night.

Eating in Paris

My Google map is scattered with pins of cafes and restaurants I’d love to visit. I try to mix visiting old favourites and new discoveries each trip. Paris offers global cuisine, but given I have access to this in London, I like eating French food in France.

Omelette at Le Baltard, Paris — Ham omelette for lunch at Le Baltard.

If I’ve had a substantial hotel breakfast, I tend to choose sandwiches, salad or a light main dish at lunchtime. Most restaurants serve either croque-monsieur or omelettes at lunchtime. Paris also has plenty of crêperies serving savoury buckwheat galettes and sweet pancakes.

You don’t always have to book for dinner, I’ve wandered into many places last minute, but if you have a special destination in mind, a reservation is wise, even if only a few hours before. A lengthy menu in multiple languages with photographs of the food suggests a tourist trap you should avoid. Nevertheless, many restaurants will provide menus in English.

Steak frites at Bouillon Chartier, Paris — Paris – Steak frites as served at bargain bistro Bouillon Chartier

Rhubarb tart at Angelina Paris — Rhubarb tart at Angelina, Paris

Art, Culture and Galleries in Paris

The obvious pulls may be the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay but I encourage people to avoid the crowds and go to smaller museums of which Paris has dozens – I will write about my favourites in a future post but here are some tasters.

Up in Montmartre, you’ve got the Dalí gallery of his drawings and sculptures; you can even buy reproductions.

Close by and tucked away from the heaving Place du Tertre and gimmicky portrait artists, Musée Montmartre offers quieter refuge with a history of this Bohemian neighbourhood. Alongside a garden (and vineyard!) painted by Renoir, you can visit the studio of Parisian artist Suzanne Valadon. Early twentieth century artefacts from local establishments include a zinc bar, vintage telephones, paintings and black-and-white photos of can-can dancers. For fans of Moulin Rouge, it’s a must.

Atelier with pinboard at Yves St Laurent Museum Paris — Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Paris. The late designer’s top floor atelier, as he left it, displays personal items and work in progress.

My favourite fashion museum in Paris is the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. His former Parisian home, the museum shows regularly changing exhibitions exploring his clothing, accessories and jewellery focussed on themes such as gold, lace or flowers. Saint Laurent’s sky-lit studio packed with books, notes and fabric samples, has been left as if the late designer has just stepped outside and makes an emotional visit for fashion lovers.

Nearby, the Palais Galliera is the serious fashionista’s museum with bigger shows devoted to single designers. Recently these have included Coco Chanel, Stephen Jones (hats) and Rick Owens.

Meanwhile next door to the Louvre, an off-shoot of the more famous museum but venue in its own right, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris’s equivalent of the V&A, shows exhibitions dedicated to design movements, people or locations. Recent displays showcased Elsa Schiaparelli, Paul Poiret, Parisian department stores and the Art Deco movement.

Glass pyramid and crowds at the Louvre, seen through archway. — There are always queues to enter Paris’s famous Louvre museum – but anyone can walk past the famous glass pyramid without a ticket.

Pre-booking is advisable for all of these if you have a strict itinerary and it’s essential for the Galerie Dior on Avenue Montaigne. That said, it’s often easier to get into Paris exhibitions without lengthy pre-booking, compared to say, the V&A in London.

My most recent experience pre-booking for the Louvre still entailed a 90-minute wait only to abandon going inside altogether. Given the alternative ways I might have spent my precious time in Paris, I was furious – so forgive me if I have little positive to say about the Louvre for now. I hope to be more fortunate on a future visit.

Planning Itineraries in Paris – An Example Day

Strike a balance between loose planning and flexibility – depending how the day pans out. Parisian buildings often have decorative features you should allow breathing space to look up and absorb. I do however, suggest booking early slots at museums and attractions to maximise your time.

To give an example of a full, but realistic timetable, here’s how we spent one day on a recent trip:

8:00 Breakfast at our hotel near Gare du Nord.
9:15 Left the hotel and took high-speed underground RER train to the Catacombs (south).
9:45 Timed entry to the Catacombs (pre-booked and arrived early for 10:00).
11:15 Found sunny spot to enjoy coffee afterwards.
11:45 Headed towards Montparnasse and explored famous grave sites at the cemetery, (this was unplanned – instead of the Zadkine gallery, flexibility in action!).
12:30 Wandered through authentic locals’ Edgar Quinet market then enjoyed relaxed lunch at a crêperie in Montparnasse’s Breton district.
14:00 Walked to Bon Marché (iconic department store), browsed the food hall.
15:00 Ambled up Rue de Bac, strolled along a short stretch of the Seine riverbank then wandered into Saint-Germain-des-Prés. We popped into smaller shops and had another pavement coffee midway.
17:30 Went back to hotel for a brief rest.
19:00 Ten-minute walk to Canal St Martin, then chose a random bistro for dinner.

Warm red bistro interior with mirror, in Paris. — Atmospheric Paris bistro interior on Boulevard Magenta.

Be realistic how much you’ll get done in a day in Paris. Choose an area to circle around and pick a couple of activities or sights either side of lunch. Allow yourself time to grab a coffee. Choose a restaurant near your hotel on at least one evening rather than dashing about until late.

In Paris it’s important to sit still and watch the city happening before you. It’s not just about ticking off a visit to the Eiffel Tower. In any case, I’d suggest L’Arc du Triomphe as an equally memorable alternative with shorter queues and lower entry price.

Paris for different types of visitor

If it’s your first time in Paris, inevitably you’ll want to see the big sights. On my mum’s first visit we used local buses that took us past Notre Dame, L’Arc du Triomphe and the Trocadero (from where there’s an excellent vantage point towards the Eiffel Tower) on one day. I wanted to show her EVERYTHING but had to be realistic what she could comfortably manage.

There simply wasn’t time to waste queuing up to get into things. I don’t see the point of having two days in Paris but spending two-thirds of one day in The Louvre. Rather I focussed on showing my mum iconic buildings from buses, with more detailed walks around Montmartre and the covered shopping arcades north of Les Halles.

Exterior of Stohrer patisserie in Paris with navy awning. — Patisserie Stohrer, of Rue Montorgueil, is the oldest bakery in Paris and famous for its rum babas.

For fashion lovers: Browse boutiques, vintage stores and BHV Marais (department store) and the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation around The Marais.

For foodies: Zone in on Rue Montorgueil district, with its independent food stores and the oldest patisserie in Paris, Stohrer. E Dehillerin, packed with restaurant quality cookware is nearby.

For shopaholics: Don’t miss the Grand Boulevards’ department stores. Galerie Lafayette has an iconic glass dome above the ground floor’s beauty hall. If you work your way up all six floors, the roof boasts a fabulous outdoor terrace overlooking the Opera Garnier.

The expensively refurbished Samaritaine, recently opened again after twenty years’ closure, has mille-feuille layers of swirling Art Nouveau iron balustrades, and a golden-hued painted atrium. It is visually stunning and an essential stop – even if you’re not buying a Celine handbag.

For children: When Ted was small we found plenty of things to do in Paris with children.

Galerie Lafayette glass dome — Galerie Lafayette’s domed ceiling is a must-see amongst the department stores along Boulevard Haussmann, Paris.

Practicalities in Paris

Even when using buses and the Metro, you will walk more than usual in Paris. I’ve clocked up as many as 30,000 steps in a day, so leave your heels behind and wear robust, comfortable shoes.

Metro stations often have huge flights of stairs to reach platforms; walking to a nearby station on a different line can save effort making connections. Plus, navigating Paris above ground helps you get your bearings. Places are often closer together than you realise.

Hotels can be cheaper on Sundays and Mondays though many independent shops and museums may be closed. Although I favour collecting loyalty points from certain hotel chains, Paris has many characterful independent hotels it would be a shame to rule out. But don’t expect a palace – unless you’re paying for The Ritz.

Paris hotel rooms can be cramped, and while an iconic view is unlikely, you may end up looking onto a dark inner courtyard. Triple or family rooms are harder to find so families may need multiple rooms. If I’m travelling alone, I choose hotels in wide (look on Google Street View) streets close to the Metro or bus stop rather than narrow alleys.

For clothing in Paris, I avoid wearing bulky coats and use a zip-up cross-body bag for my valuables. I carry a tote bag for purchases or layers removed along the way. If your trip is short, it’s easier to gauge whether to bother with a raincoat.

I like wearing a leather jacket as it’s showerproof and feels less touristy than a hooded anorak. Although I love cute French slogans on tops at home in London, I leave these behind – they do not translate so well in Paris.

On my last day, I store luggage securely at the hotel reception and fetch it before leaving. Even if you travel light, allow extra space in your luggage to squeeze in some French goodies to bring home!

Sarah Trivuncic in Paris — Paris – posing on the humbug podiums in Domaine Nationale Palais Royale.

Rouen City Break: Weekend Itinerary

Sarah Trivuncic French Travel city guide, france, itinerary, Normandy, Rouen 0 Comments

Normandy’s Compact City is Full of Surprises

Why isn’t a Rouen city break closer to mind for city breaks? Packed with narrow streets filled with medieval houses, stunning Gothic buildings and the Joan of Arc factor. There are interesting shops and museums to explore, and rich Normandy cuisine to sample. All within seven hours’ drive from London.

Rouen city break scene: shopping street with timber buildings and gros-horlogue medieval clock. — Rouen City Break in Normandy: A Compact City Filled With History

Follow our casual weekend itinerary from our real Rouen city break; these are real lived experiences, not a listicle selling expensive tours. To plan our weekend break in Rouen we used the very useful Visit Rouen local tourist office website.

We drove via the Channel Tunnel late on Friday evening and stayed until Sunday afternoon.

Our 36 Hours in Rouen:

Day 1 in Rouen: Markets, Medieval Streets and a Concert

French market stall selling giant lettuce and vegetables in Rouen, Normandy. — Rouen’s Biggest Market At Place Saint-Marc

The northern French city is compact and easy to explore on a weekend break. Our Rouen city break was built around a Saturday night concert with a day and a half to see Rouen’s main sights on foot. It was our second trip there and we noticed some monuments had been cleaned and pedestrian areas were landscaped with plants.

Morning at Marché Saint-Marc

We stayed in the same place as 2018, twenty minutes’ walk from the main town but close to the bustling Marché Saint-Marc. We planned to come back on Sunday – the market runs Friday to Sunday, plus Tuesdays – to maximise our schedule, but it was hard not to linger when passing generous displays of fresh produce.

Exploring the Saint-Maclou Quarter

Timber ceilinged walkway overlooking Aître-Saint-Maclou in Rouen, Normandy, France. — Rouen’s Aître-Saint-Maclou, A Former Cemetery and Ossuary (Bone Gallery)

Heading west, our first stop was Aître-Saint-Maclou, which was being renovated during our last visit. This former parish cemetery is surrounded by timber panels that once housed ossuary bone galleries. The buildings lining the square were, until 2014, a school.

We scanned the information panels and admired the timber ceiling in the corridor linking the Aître with adjacent streets. Carvings depicting danse macabre skeletons edge the space and there was a craft gallery we’d love to see another time. The Aître merits more than the twenty minutes we spent looking.

Interior view of nave and vaulted ceiling and crucifix inside Eglise Saint Maclou in Rouen, Normandy — The Nave inside Rouen’s Eglise Saint-Maclou

Alongside the Église Saint-Maclou – possibly even lovelier inside than the cathedral – is the wonky Maison du Bois at 4 Place Barthélémy squashed between other buildings, and a square lined with cafes. In the door wells of Saint-Maclou, we were fascinated by the headless stone figures seen up close, and in a quieter spot than those outside the cathedral.

Literary Rouen and a Café Stop

Cafe interior with busts of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre in Rouen, France. — Rouen’s Café Metropole: Regular Haunt of Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre

A recurring theme in Rouen seems to be long lunches and unusual opening hours; despite them closing at noon on Saturday, Café Metropole kindly allowed me to photograph their bronze busts celebrating Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre.

The couple were regulars in the 1930s when De Beauvoir was teaching philosophy at the local lycée and Sartre was catching trains back to his post in Le Havre; the handsome Art Nouveau railway station with clock tower is across the road.

Ornamental facade of Maison Marrou in Rouen, Normandy. — Maison Marrou in Rouen: The Imagined Home of Madame Bovary

Nearby, the intensely decorative Maison Marrou is worth a glance. Once open as a museum, creating the imagined home of Emma Bovary, the building is sadly shuttered. Meanwhile Madame Bovary writer, Gustave Flaubert’s birthplace is now a medical museum east of the city centre.

Lunch at Place du Vieux-Marché

Modern stained glass exterior of Eglise Jeanne D'Arc in Rouen, Normandy, France. — L’Eglise Jeanne D’Arc de Rouen and La Buche Marking The Spot of Her Death

After so many wooden buildings, the pointy roofs of Comptoir des Halles’ covered food market and Église Sainte-Jeanne-d’Arc de Rouen are striking. Reminiscent of Sydney Opera House, they curl around La Bûche, a cross marking the spot where Joan of Arc was burned.

We’ve still not managed to see inside the church, as it shuts between 12-2 but the daily market is easier to catch.

Timber medieval exterior of Les Maraichers restaurant with outdoor tables in Rouen, France. — The Place du Vieux-Marché in Rouen is surrounded by timber buildings including Les Maraichers restaurant

Behind this modern silhouette, around Place du Vieux-Marché are foundations of a ruined church, Saint-Saveur, and 14th century buildings. Amongst them, La Couronne, which opened in 1345, claims to be the oldest restaurant in France. Bafflingly, they were closed at Saturday lunch, but next door we enjoyed a two-course lunch with Normandy cider at Les Maraîchers.

Rouen’s Most Iconic Sights

Close up of the Gros-Horlogue ornamental clock in Rouen, France. — Rouen’s decorative Gros-Horlogue clock has a museum upstairs.

After a boozy apple dessert flambéed with Calvados liqueur, we wandered past more of Rouen’s main landmarks. The Gros-Horlogue is an ornamental gold clock straddling one of the pedestrian shopping streets. There’s also a little museum upstairs.

Bullet marks in Rouen's Palais de Justice filled with colourful Lego pieces. — Bullet marks in the Palais de Justice de Rouen from 1944’s liberation – some now filled with Lego

The Palais de Justice de Rouen is a majestic public building crowned with gargoyles; its eastern wall still bears bullet holes received in 1944’s liberation from German occupation. Recently some have been plugged with colourful Lego. Under the Palais is the Maison Sublime, a Jewish archeological site only discovered in 1976, and now a visitor attraction.

Gothic facade of Rouen cathedral on a sunny day, the fleche spire is covered with white tarpaulin during repairs. — Rouen Cathedral, painted many, many times by Claude Monet.

Rouen’s Cathédral-de-Notre-Dame with three towers is the jewel of Rouen’s numerous big churches. The Gothic iron spire or flèche caught fire in 2024 and is currently covered in a white cylinder – although my husband referred to this as a toilet roll.

The magnificent facade sings with columns of stone apostles and Archbishops. Inside hums with visitors admiring vaulted ceilings and chapels. We liked the decorative stone staircase and pews made from rush seating. You don’t need to be religious to be in awe of such architecture.

Decorative stone staircase bannisters in Rouen Cathedral. — Decorative staircase in Rouen Cathedral.

Behind the cathedral lies L’Historial Jeanne D’Arc, a lively museum experience telling the Joan of Arc story using audio guides and digital displays – we had visited before in 2018.

A Slower Side of Rouen: Rue Eau de Robec

Winding down, at Rue Eau de Robec, we sat down at Café Addict for coffee and a shared tranche of homemade carrot cake. A shallow green channel flows along this street, in front of the little shops and cafes.

It’s not quite Little Venice, but the shimmering water brings quiet charm and character to this corner of Rouen.

Rue Eau de Robec in Rouen with watery channel filled with plants. — Rouen’s Rue Eau de Robec with watery channel in front of shops and cafes.

An Evening at the Zénith de Rouen

Our evening took us to the 8,000-seat arena, Zénith de la Métropole Rouen Normandie to watch French pop showman Julien Doré. Although Rouen has trams and buses, there has been a typically French, long-running public transport strike every Saturday since January(!).

Our hotel receptionist wisely advised us to drive. We were amazed to find not only free parking but pre-gig snacks of freshly made crèpes filled with jambon-fromage and fruit beer at bargain prices.

Julien Doré stageshow at Rouen Zénith, blue light fills the arena as an inflatable whale and bubbles float giving impression of being underwater. — Julien Doré show at Rouen Zénith

The concert highlight was an inflatable whale “swimming” in the concert hall with blue light and bubble machine making it seem the audience were underwater.

Day 2 in Rouen: Brocante, Green Spaces and Art

A Relaxed Hotel Breakfast

Breakfast buffet at hotel, a rack of glass cereal jars with wooden lids, copper saucepans dangle from above. — Breakfast buffet at Mercure Rouen Champ de Mars

Continuing our Rouen city break, on Sunday morning we took things easy. By organisational quirk, our hotel, Ibis Rouen Champ de Mars served guests breakfast at the more upmarket Mercure next door.

This upgrade, combined with a spacious room and sunny balcony overlooking a fountain, was a steal at under 100 euros per night. We also benefited from reasonably priced on-site parking – further proof our Rouen trip had been great value, even more so than our 3 days in Lille.

Sunday Brocante at Marché Saint-Marc

French flea market brocante stall in Rouen on a sunny spring day, picture frames, metal urn and candleabra amongst goods for sale. — Brocante stalls at Rouen’s lively Saint-Marc Market

We crossed the market again, which was even busier than Saturday. Sundays are good for secondhand stalls; last time I bought a bundle of Étienne Daho singles.

Heading north, Rue Armand Carrel was filled with independent food stores, all open on Sunday mornings with queues of customers pulling wheeled shopping trolleys.

Walking Around the Abbey of Saint-Ouen

Rear of Abbey of Saint-Ouen as seen from the Town Hall Park in Rouen, Normandy, France. — Rouen’s Abbey of Saint-Ouen as seen from Jardin de L’Hotel-de-Ville

We approached the Abbey of Saint-Ouen from behind, crossing the peaceful city park, Jardin de l’Hotel-de-Ville. The Abbey had been almost black on our previous visit, but has been thoroughly cleaned. The barricades were still up, with information panels and photos illustrating the scale of this project.

Visiting the Musée des Beaux Arts

Atrium cafe space with Grecian sculpture fountain and Raoul Dufy murals in Musee des Beaux Arts Rouen. — Atrium cafe in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rouen

We approached the Museum Quarter, passing by the Donjon de Rouen turret, where Joan of Arc was imprisoned. Outside the Musée des Beaux-Arts, we sat in another pleasant green space, as local women practised tai chi beneath a large modern sculpture, and children played in a nearby playground.

Inside the museum, we enjoyed the atrium with cafe chairs dotted around a fountain sculpture (sadly off) and several huge paintings including some murals by Raoul Dufy.

The permanent collection here is huge, and although we’d seen the Monet of the cathedral before, this time we felt rushed seeing only the southern wing. You could devote a whole morning to this free museum or combine it with the Musée Le Secq des Tournelles next door, which houses historical ironwork in – yet another – 1500s church.

Pastry and Coffee Near Saint-Maclou

Vanilla Flan and Coffee on cafe table in Rouen: Les Patisseries de Gill. — Flan Vanille at Les Patisseries de Gill at Aître-Saint-Maclou, Rouen.

Between the late breakfast and mid-afternoon departure, we sat outside Les Patisseries de Gill for coffee. A robust vanilla flan in sweet pastry felt a fitting snack to say goodbye to Rouen until next time when we’d take better advantage of its food scene.

Gill’s pavement seating offered a rear view of Église Saint-Maclou and brought us neatly to where we’d started. We had seen a huge amount of Rouen over a weekend, without even going in any paid attractions.

Although Rouen would be a lovely day trip during a holiday in Normandy but there is so much more here than you can visit on one day – it’s taking time to slow down here.

A Final Walk Through Old Rouen

Place Saint-Amand in Rouen with red planters, bust of Claude Monet and L'Espiguette cafe umbrellas and tables. — Bust of Claude Monet in Place Saint-Amand, Rouen.

Before leaving we discovered the tiny alleyway Rue des Chanoines which leads to Place Saint-Amand, a picturesque square – or should I say triangle – with a bust dedicated to Monet.

L’Espiguette is an attractive café there, that we remembered seeing last time, eastwards we took a last stroll down Rue Eau de Robec where locals were now playing pétanque.

More Details That Define Rouen

Details of mediaval building facade in Rouen, wooden carvings of figures and buildings, decorative ironwork and blue French door number. — Details of buildings in old Rouen.

Heading back to our car, I scoured buildings picking out wooden carvings, interesting ironwork and decorative doorways.

Old Rouen doesn’t have a huge street art scene but things felt earthier as we looped back to Place Saint-Marc and our hotel; old factory buildings, a cluster of ethnic restaurants, glimpses of the industrial riverside. I’ve not even mentioned that Rouen is also a river port sat on the Seine – freight barges are a common sight.

What We Missed (And Tips For Your Rouen Trip)

We have plenty of things to soak up on a return trip; you could use Rouen as a base to visit the Somme, Amiens or Giverny (more Monet).

Next time we would want to:

Visit paid-entry attractions with a museum pass
Exploring along the Seine – river cruises, a Viking attraction and L’Entrepôt food hall
Tasting local foods including duck, Neufchatel cheese and apple sugar sweets
Spend time shopping – Rouen had everything from independents to upscale fashion
Take in views high up from Saint Catherine

Rouen city break Pinterest graphic "Exploring Rouen Your Ultimate Weekend Guide" with portrait shot looking up at the ancient clock Gros-Horlogue, Normandy, France. — Save This Itinerary For Your Own Trip To Rouen

Although we only spent 36 hours in Rouen, there’s enough to keep you occupied for a week. If you’d like a bit of sea air whilst you’re in the area, take a look at my Things To Do in Baie De Somme – around 75 minutes’ drive away from Rouen.

Have I inspired you to visit Rouen? Bookmark this post to keep hold of this Rouen City Break weekend itinerary. If you’ve been to Rouen before, tell me your experiences in the comments below!

Originally published on Maison Cupcake

March 13, 2026

How to Spend 3 Days in Lille: Culture, Shopping & Food – An Honest Travel Report

Sarah Trivuncic French Travel city guide, france, itinerary, lille 0 Comments

3 days in Lille: Women walking dogs along a sunlit cobbled street in Vieux Lille — Saturday afternoon shoppers on a cobbled street in Vieux Lille

Planning 3 days in Lille or a long weekend in Lille? Here’s how we packed a long weekend exploring museums, food and charming cobbled streets. I return regularly for French pop concerts – the reason for this latest Eurostar trip from London – but Vieux Lille‘s lively atmosphere would entice me back anyway.

Our busy three-day itinerary featured a city bus tour, heritage sites and art in Roubaix, museums in Vieux Lille, the vibrant Wazemmes market and panoramic views from the Belfry tower.

This is an honest report on what is achievable during a three day Lille trip on a fixed budget, rather than listing expensive or impractical activities you won’t fit into a weekend break.

Our Budget for 3 Days in Lille (2 People)

Before diving into our 3-day Lille itinerary, here’s the budget for our trip for two people:

Travel: £69 return per person – Eurostar London to Lille during the Eurostar Flash Sale (£138 total)
Hotel: £90 per night including breakfast – double room at Ibis Styles Lille Grand Place (£270 total)
72-hour Lille Citypass: £42.60 per person including 24-hour public transport (£85.40 total)
Restaurants and snacks: £240 for two people over three days
Total: £623.40 (excluding concert tickets)

For a long weekend in a walkable European city with great museums, interesting shops and food, we thought Lille was fantastic value in 2026.

Just 90 minutes’ journey on Eurostar makes Lille a perfect weekend getaway; after clocking off work we arrived at Lille Europe station by 10pm local time. Our hotel near the Opera House was close enough to walk to from the Eurostar.

3 days in Lille: Cafes in the Grand Place, Lille at dusk. — Grand Place in Lille, with its cafes and historic monuments

As it was not too late, we immediately headed out for an evening stroll around Lille’s handsome Grand Place, more formally known as Place du Général-de-Gaulle, after France’s famous President.

Seeing the stepped gabled roofs and decorative Flemish facades, hearing cars slowly rumble across the cobbles (although much of the centre is pedestrianised) in front of lively cafes – and you know you’ve arrived in Lille.

Day 1: Lille Citypass, Roubaix and a concert

Lille City Pass card held over cobbled street in Lille

On Friday morning, the first of our 3 days in Lille, we bought the 72 hour Hello Lille Citypass which includes public transport for the first 24 hours. Lille has two underground metro lines and two tramlines reaching to the suburbs – although the city centre is easily walkable.

Lille tourist passes are available for 24, 48 or 72 hours in Lille; you can order them online but picking up in person was easy at Lille tourist office. I have written a fuller review our using Lille City Pass including savings made.

Lille City Bus Tour

Double decker sightseeing bus parked beside Palais Rihour in central Lille. — The Lille Imperial City Tour bus at Palais du Rihour.

Having bought our tourist passes, we boarded Lille’s city bus tour which departs daily (except Monday) from the tourist office and passes the main sights alongside audio commentary.

Quai du Wault waterway in Lille with historic buildings and cobbles. — The picturesque Quai de Wault as seen on the Lille city bus tour.

The 75 minute tour passed sights farther from the centre we’d not yet seen; Quai de Wault, the Porte de Paris monument and Gare Saint Saveur cultural centre.

We saw Lille from a different angle on the open top deck; audio commentary on local history and architecture enhanced our knowledge of the city.

Afterwards, for quick sandwiches we went to KAF, opposite main transport hub Lille Flandres station, before boarding a tram towards Roubaix – where our evening concert would be.

Villa Cavrois: Modernist Architectural Monument

Modernist exterior of Villa Cavrois designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens. — Villa Cavrois in Roubaix: one of the most striking examples of modernist architecture in northern France.

We got off halfway to Roubaix: Villa Cavrois is twenty minutes’ walk from the tramway and lies in a well-heeled suburb of large privet hedged houses. A 1930s architectural marvel, designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens, the yellow bricked mansion had fallen into disrepair before being saved by the French government as a national monument. Allow 2 hours to visit.

Visitors reflected in mirrored interior at Villa Cavrois — The sleek interiors of Villa Cavrois have undergone full refurbishment.

The villa’s custom-designed modernist furnishings were sold decades ago; gradually some pieces are being bought back when they’re up for auction. The estate was photographed by period design magazines, allowing painstaking accuracy in recreating fixtures, fittings and the garden.

In the bunker-like basement, materials salvaged from the dilapidated site are displayed; bakelite light switches, rusty metal bath feet, parquet flooring. A short film depicts the scale of the ongoing project. There’s a great gift shop selling design books but sadly no cafe.

La Piscine Museum at Roubaix

Artworks displayed inside Roubaix's former swimming pool, now La Piscine Museum. — La Piscine museum in Roubaix, a beautifully converted Art Deco swimming pool.

Flagging, we rejoined the tram to La Piscine Musée d’Art et Industrie in Roubaix. Annoyingly, a press reception that evening meant the museum cafe there had closed early.

Nevertheless, the stunning re-worked Art Deco swimming pool interior made us forget our caffeine deprivation (if not our aching feet). Shimmering water reflects light from the sunrise feature windows and tiled vintage cubicles, once changing rooms, are now display cases.

The impressive collection of sculptures, ceramics and paintings is almost upstaged; being late in the day, we were overwhelmed. La Piscine at Roubaix may be my favourite gallery space ever; a memorable visit well worth a day trip from Lille.

Street art in Roubaix: a cartoon character with camera is captioned "Shot in Roubaix" — Roubaix has a gritty industrial past but plenty of character.

A post-industrial suburb, Roubaix punches above its weight with things to do, including two further museums and two big outlet shopping malls. The gritty urban setting – Roubaix is twinned with Bradford – contrasts with Vieux Lille’s more obvious tourist appeal.

Pop Concert at Roubaix Collisée

Art Deco auditorium interior of Colisée Roubaix — We ended our day with a concert at Roubaix Colisée, an Art Deco theatre

Evening approached and we sought food near Roubaix Collisée (another Art Deco gem). In a Muslim neighbourhood, the many food businesses were not yet serving as it was Ramadan. We found a friendly Japanese restaurant near the SNCF station called Happy Sushi; it was the first time we’d sat down since 1pm.

Our long day was catching up with us and once seated for our Benjamin Biolay concert, I could only muster energy for this single picture of the decorative ceiling. As a French music fan, I was thrilled to learn that the mighty Jacques Brel gave his two final farewell shows at Roubaix Collisée – most fitting, as he was Belgian-Flemish.

Ibis Styles Lille Grand Place

It was my second stay at Ibis Styles Lille Grand Place. Although a chain, it feels independent with the original incarnation open since the 1920s. Rooms are simple but functional; a sound budget option in a central location.

There are personal touches such as a self-serve drinks area and board games in the bright lobby. At breakfast, staff offer freshly squeezed orange juice and homemade waffles.

My husband was delighted not to forgo his night-time herbal tea – he’s happily brewing it at the drinks station in the photo here.

Day 2: Exploring Vieux Lille, Museums and Local Food

On Saturday we had a more relaxed day exploring Vieux Lille on foot. The streets closest to the Grand Place and Opera House are densely packed with shops; but the old town is considerably larger spreading beyond this busy zone with quieter residential streets and old houses.

Vieux Lille’s narrow streets have lanterns strung across roads rather than conventional street lamps. Combined with cobbled streets and decorative stonework on many buildings, Lille is visually arresting without feeling like an over-touristed chocolate box.

Being close to the Belgian border, the architecture feels distinctively Flemish rather than typically French – a big contrast to Paris.

Quiet cobbled street in Vieux Lille with mix of peeling facades and bright brickwork. — Wandering the atmospheric cobbled streets of Vieux Lille.

Heading further out than our previous visits, we were charmed that Lille’s old town had retained its character. Although quiet, we didn’t get the impression it had morphed into an empty shell of AirBnB monoculture.

Lille still seems to strike a balance of supporting tourism and lively hospitality without turning itself into a circus or becoming a ghost town off-season.

Visiting the Charles de Gaulle Museum in Lille

Glass conservatory inside Maison Natale Charles de Gaulle — The conservatory at Maison Natale Charles de Gaulle in Vieux Lille.

On the northern edge of the old town lies the childhood home of former French president Charles de Gaulle, now a museum. Rather than offering dry political history, it’s an endearing period restoration of the de Gaulle family home filled with lovely French antiques.

Visitor numbers are controlled so we had a short wait to get in. The family were clearly devout Catholics: each room entrance has holy water wells and crucifixes. There’s even a small praying room with a kneeler and devotional statues.

I especially loved the vintage kitchenalia and Farrow and Ball-like arsenic green painted scullery with hanging pheasants. Upstairs there’s a laundry room with faded old hat boxes.

Allow 45 minutes inside and stick to the tour route because the friendly, albeit with military efficiency, staff prevent roaming freely. A separate wing houses a display about de Gaulle’s political timeline.

Lunch at a Traditional Lille Estaminet

Traditional northern French dish, Le Classic Welsh: toasted bread and ham smothered in cheese, served with frites and beer. — Le Welsh: classic Northern French dish of melted cheese on bread and ham with frites.

After Friday’s unremarkable dining (for convenience), we sought authentic Lille cuisine. The Rue de Gand is home to a cluster of authentic northern French restaurants, known as estaminets, each serving hearty regional food.

Estaminets get busy, we were turned away from several – so booking is wise. We found a friendly welcome at Chez Ronny. Estaminets have a unique personality – dark cluttered interiors, the unmistakable fug of Marouilles cheese – and deserve a post of their own.

I ordered Le Welsh: orange molten cheese smothering bread and ham, croque-monsieur on steroids. Served with frites, it’s best washed down with cold beer. Surprisingly, it was less heavy than expected – although guilt prevents me ordering one again.

Shopping in Vieux Lille

Café and shoppers in Rue de la Monnaie, Lille — Rue de la Monnaie, one of the main shopping streets in Vieux Lille.

To burn off our cheese feast we ambled around Rue de la Monnaie, one of old Lille’s most historic trading streets. Now it’s home to quirky shops although upmarket chains are creeping in.

I saw queues outside cool French fashion label Sézane and cult bakery Les Merveilleux de Fred. A beautiful mosaic-tiled storefront that was previously a fishmonger is now Louis Vuitton – but there are still grubby shuttered units and graffiti too. Aimlessly window shopping was a highlight of our 3 days in Lille.

Rue de la Clef was packed with more independent boutiques. Around Rue Esquermoise you’ll find several food shops including the ornate Meert tea room. We made sure to stop for a rest today at Le Post-Arrière, a coffee shop by day and stained glass-adorned cocktail bar by night. I can feature dedicated guides to Lille shopping, bars and restaurants soon – there is plenty to share.

Musée de L’Hospice Comtesse

Historic courtyard at Hospice Comtesse Museum, Lille — The charming cobbled courtyard of Musée de L’Hospice Comtesse.

Last Citypass stop of the day on our 3 days in Lille itinerary was the Musée de L’Hospice Comtesse, housed in a cluster of Flemish brick buildings around a Gothic courtyard. A former sick ward staffed by nuns may not sound enticing, but this surprising little museum was well worth seeing. Think Call The Midwife meets the V&A.

Beyond domestic quarters, you see the pharmacy where the nuns mixed remedies for patients, a chapel and main upstairs gallery. Displays include paintings by Brueghel, Faïence ceramics, silverware and scientific artefacts. We spent 45 minutes here, although we would have lingered longer if they weren’t closing at 6pm.

Nightlife in Lille

3 days in Lille: Cafes and warm lights in a narrow pedestrian street of Vieux Lille at dusk — Evening in Vieux Lille: street bars spring into life

That evening we explored pubs and bars around Vieux Lille. The areas around Place Louise de Bettignies and the bottom of Rue Royale had the most places to drink. A large student population and easy proximity for visitors from Belgium, Holland and the UK means Lille is always lively.

The old town is peppered with restaurants of all kinds; the estaminets mentioned, Michelin establishments and various world cuisine. Wanting a lighter meal, we opted for Thai food at La Table du Siam.

Around the Grand Place are plenty of larger French brasseries where you can usually walk in without reservation. Al Cid there, despite the name, is a French bouillon restaurant with low prices and queues to get in.

Night time bar scene with drinkers at outdoor tables in central Lille. — Lille nightlife around Rue de Gand.

Both the Grand Place and Opera House are dramatically lit at night, after a stroll around and some people watching, we needed a relatively early night.

Had we been up for a nightcap, Au Point Central on Rue de la Clef had guaranteed a great vibe every time we walked past, whilst Jacqueline on Rue de Gand was an intimate, casually stylish wine bar.

Day 3: Wazemmes Market, the Belfry tower and Lille Cathedral.

On Sundays, the majority of central Lille shops are closed, which feels strange if you’re used to Sunday opening in the UK. Westfield Euralille, the Vieux Lille boutiques will all be shut.

We still managed to pack a lot into the last of our 3 days in Lille by saving activities that were available on Sunday; the Belfry tower, Lille cathedral and the city museums are all open, although times may differ.

Wazemmes Sunday Market

Sunday morning is when best to visit the unmissable and huge outdoor Wazemmes Market, selling household goods, clothing and fresh flowers at low prices. It’s unglamorous, with ethnic foods such as olives and dates nestling aside knock-down LU biscuits. I bought a lovely knitted beret and scarf for just three euros.

The indoor part, Marché Couvert de Wazemmes, has specialist fresh food counters and places to eat; it is open every day except Mondays.

Watching shoppers choose produce for that day’s dinner embodies the enduring French preference for quality, unprocessed food: live lobsters in bubbling tanks, piles of freshly baked organic breads, massive vegetables still tinged with soil – and barely a sheet of plastic wrap in sight.

3 days in Lille: Couple drinking coffees near Wazemmes Market in Lille. — A quick coffee break after exploring Wazemmes Market

Rue Saint-Pierre Saint-Paul has boot-sale style secondhand stalls, although these are more flea market than brocante chic. Cafes at each end of the street overlook the church, Cafe Le Stout is on a busy corner to watch passers by.

Lille Town Hall Belfry Tower Views

To sharpen his appetite for lunch, my husband wanted to climb Lille’s town hall belfry tower. I’d been put off by the 400 steps, but in fact two-thirds can be done by lift. Visits can be booked at fixed times before 11am, but after that you queue – only 18 people are allowed up at once.

Brutalist apartment building with Lille gothic red brick Belfry tower. — Lille’s gothic Belfry tower next to Brutalist housing.

From the top of the Belfry, we spotted Porte de Paris below, the grand archway we’d passed on the bus tour. Knowing it was an original gate to the remparts – Porte de Gand, as seen close to Chez Ronny on day 2, was another – framed Lille as a historic walled city.

3 days in Lille: Aerial view of Porte de Paris city gate as seen from Lille Belfry tower. — Porte de Paris in Lille, seen from the Town Hall Belfry tower.

We’d learned on the bus tour that the name “Lille” derives from L’Île, reflecting its trading heritage as city surrounded by water in the Middle Ages – much like Bruges and Amsterdam.

Terrace Lunch: Carbonnade Flamande and Beer

Traditional carbonnade flamande beef stew with frites and beer. — Carbonnade Flamande – a traditional beef and beer stew from northern France.

By now the sun had poked through and we installed ourselves for a lazy lunch on an outdoor terrace near the Grand Place. Carbonnade Flamande is a traditional beef and beer stew with thick gravy served across northern France and Belgium. I’m tempted to revise my own beef stew with beer to see I can create a similar dish at home.

It was International Women’s Day and a passing upbeat procession of people waving feminist and anti-war placards brought some typical French protest energy to our afternoon. We sat sipping cold beers (and had a sneaky ice cream) until it was time for some final sightseeing.

The Smallest House in Lille

Although very central, you probably won’t stumble across La Plus Petite Maison de Lille by accident. The tiny yellow building, barely wider than its door, is hidden along a footpath behind the cathedral.

I think the walls leading to it are a bridge over a ditch that was once a waterway in Vieux Lille; today there are flats at basement level.

Lille Cathedral

Place Gilleson in Lille with outdoor cafes and Cathedral Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille. — The modern facade of Lille Cathedral overlooks outdoor cafe terraces on Place Gilleson.

As one of the earliest sunny weekends of the year, the square outside Lille’s cathedral, Notre-Dame-de-la-Treille, was buzzing with people at open air cafe tables. We’ve previously eaten waffles at Beer Square (the red brick building above) so much we made gluten free waffles at home.

Sunlight shining through tall orange coloured modern stained glass window in Lille Cathedral. — Light streams through the modern stained glass window of Lille Cathedral.

Lille Cathedral, only completed in 1999, is a mix of Gothic revival and twentieth century modernist. The grey facade looks drab from outside but hides a distinctive amber-coloured stained glass window. It reminded me of the UK’s Coventry Cathedral.

The tall pew chairs have clean lines and the stations of the cross are abstract paintings. The crypt has a paid display of ecclesiastical “treasure” but it was sadly time to retrieve our luggage and head to Lille Europe’s Eurostar check in.

Going Home on Eurostar

Departure on Eurostar at Lille is even easier than London, we checked in 60 minutes before leaving. The Brussels train stops for 5 minutes whilst Lille’s passengers board. With security checks completed you can walk straight off in London. We were home by 7pm UK time.

French copy of Marie Claire magazine with actress Juliette Binoche on cover with wine aboard Eurostar train. — Heading home on Eurostar from Lille to London after three busy days!

If you’re planning your own 3 days in Lille, I hope this guide inspires you to explore the city’s culture, food, and shopping. This three-day itinerary is just the beginning of a series I intend to feature – if you have any questions or things I might cover, leave a comment below.

For an alternative to Lille, Rouen has equally beautiful historic buildings and attractions – read about my recent Rouen city break here.

Is 3 Days in Lille Enough?

Walking around central Lille and Vieux Lille on foot, you could have a lovely visit on a day trip, but this would only be a snapshot of what Lille has to offer. If you want to spend time shopping or visit several museums, then you really need a weekend or more.

3 Day Lille itinerary: A cobblestone street and shoppers in northern France. — Your Ultimate 3-Day Lille Guide: cafes, culture and charming shops to explore over a long weekend.

By spending 3 days in Lille, you get the space to explore beyond Lille city centre, either to Roubaix as we did, or other towns on the Lille transport network such as Tourcoing and Villeneuve D’Ascq – both of which have attractions of their own.

My honest answer? No – three days isn’t enough. But the joy of Lille being so close is that you can make repeat visits and still find new things to do. You might also plan a trip around the Christmas Market, Beer Festival or the Braderie, Lille’s famous city-wide flea market.

If you would prefer a seaside weekend itinerary rather than a city break, take a look at my Things To Do in Baie de Somme, which is around two hours’ drive from Lille but only 90 minutes from Calais.

My next Lille trip will be in November – for a Vanessa Paradis concert – and I still have a long list of things to do!